Antica Pizza Fritta da Esterina Sorbillo. The founder was Anna’s grandmother (nicknamed “Masardona”); then Carmela took over, and now there’s Enzo, Carmela’s son, the wise entrepreneur, the philosopher of fried pizza, who carefully ensures that each of the pizzas produced meets his very high standards. She opened her eponymous, all-women-run restaurant two years ago in Naples’ Rione Sanità neighbourhood after working at Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo at and La Masardona, both hot spots hailed for their pizza fritta. I nodded. [Yes], that’s all true. Cooked until perfectly golden brown, the montanara pizza is served hot yet fresh on the palette with the toppings lathered on once it has been fried. Next Post Next post: Naples Smartphone Sightseeing Walk – Centrale/ Mercato/ … “Pizza fritta really looks like a wartime food,” Cinotto said. Best Fried Pizza in Naples La Masardona. She agreed to tell me more about herself, but only after I ordered three pizza fritta from her. In 2018, British chef Jamie Oliver visited her to learn how to make pizza fritta himself. If you liked this story, sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called "The Essential List". Another piece of dough was added as a top layer. Starita. The first time I met 82-year-old Fernanda Miano was on a sweltering afternoon in early August. Already in 1800 in Naples you could taste the famous pizza. Doubly delicious! What you might not know is that in Naples, fried pizza existed before baked pizza. “Whatever you fry becomes palatable,” Cinotto said. According to Cinotto, the urban, middle class in the south of the country, where pizza fritta was common, did not view fried food favourably again until the last decade. While the taste of oven-baked pizza changes in delivery, that of fried pizza remains almost unaltered. Fried Pizza from Naples, Southern Italy! More Filling yet light, not stodgy or greasy, cheap and super tasty. She shot to international stardom shortly after. On Via Materdei. In Naples, Italy, pizza fritta is an ubiquitous street food. Pizza fritta is the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza. From pizza to fried delights, visitors will quickly find Naples is a city of food and we share what you must try! It’s called Pizza Fritta da Fernanda and the menu consists of just pizza fritta (fried pizza) in two sizes: grande (large) for €3 and piccola (small) for €2. There aren’t many people like her left,” she told me. Gino has reproduced its layout in one of the rooms of his restaurant. One of those popular pizzerias is owned by 27-year-old Isabella de Cham. loading map - please wait...Map could not be loaded - please enable Javascript!→ more information. Enzo’s sons are the fourth generation of a family that has been operating this fry house since 1947. Picture a pizza made on a cloud -- that's the best way to describe Our pizza, a fried pizza all the way from Naples, Italy. “I'm not totally convinced about the theory that it suddenly sprung up after World War Two because there was no food around and it was easier to fry than bake. Dubbed “the pizza of the people”, street vendors – including Miano’s family – sold the item to struggling customers as “a ogge a otto”, meaning they could eat it that day and pay for it eight days later. Miano wrapped the end result in paper and handed it to me. Deep-fried pizza dough without toppings has been sold as street food in Naples since 1910, originally at the pizza shop Starita. In the chapter “Pizze a Credito” (Pizza on Credit), a young Sophia Loren portrayed a pizza fritta maker cheating on her husband. Via Pietro Colletta 16 Angolo Corso Umberto Primo, 80139, ... Don’t expect fine dining but this is a classic and basic pizzeria that serves some outstanding specialty (fried) … About 10 years ago, Antonio Starita, the pizzeria's third-generation pizzaiolo, began first frying the dough, topping it with sauce and cheese, and then baking it an oven, just like a regular pizza. This is now being served in several restaurants in New York, as well as in other cities in the … Read about our approach to external linking. He added that the technology and market for fried foods existed and was documented in Italy since well before World War Two, but that pizza fritta was likely a specific result that emerged from the crisis. Fluffy, airy, saucy and crisp are some of the words that can best describe fried pizza. The fried pizza at La Masardona provides an authentic taste of Naples. As with so many local specialties in this city, it’s hard to say who makes the best fried pizza here; there are improvised pizzerias in every corner of Naples, street vendors that make a really good pie. 7am-4pm and 7pm-midnigh (, Via Giulio Cesare Capaccio 27, Tel. Accordingly, we top each Deep Fried Crust with mozzarella, provolone, Parmigiano Reggiano, and—most importantly—dollops of burrata and fresh pesto with roasted garlic. Also famous for having hosted the film "The Gold of Naples" where Sophia Loren fry the fried pizzas. Pizza dough is stretched and fried in oil, then topped with a dab of tomatos sauce, some mozzarella cheese and basil and eaten. While it may be difficult to determine pizza fritta’s exact origins, 22-year-old Francesca Stanziola, a Naples local who manages the bed and breakfast Museo19, believes the food is an emblem of Neapolitan pride. Fried pizza is one of the most popular street foods in Naples. He says that’s when trendy Naples restaurants reintroduced it on their menus and photos of pizza fritta garnered attention on social media. ... (The Gold of Naples). But De Cham says she noticed that when she first entered the food industry, many people viewed her favourite dish as “junk food” and avoided it. You may also be interested in: • How to make pizza like a Neapolitan master • New York's 'real' Little Italy • Georgia's addictive cousin to pizza. What you might not know is that in Naples, fried pizza existed before baked pizza. Can you believe this homemade pizza is ready in 10 minutes – the secret is frying the dough! Montanara Pizza is a mouth-watering, crispy fried pizza dough with its origins in the mountains of pizza heaven – Naples. Pizza, as you might already know, was born in Naples. “If you look at [Italian] recipe books, even from the 1500s, you do find fried food, fried dough,” said Fabio Parasecoli, professor of food studies in the Department of Nutrition and Food Studies at New York University. Naples, Italy is a foodie's destination. These traditions of frying food, however, dipped in popularity over time. Pizza fritta is the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza. I ordered a grande pizza fritta from her, unaware that it was going to be as big as my head. Finally, the concoction was flash fried in oil until the filling had melted and the outside was crisp and puffy. Tagged Campania Fried Pizza Italy Street Food Naples Napoli Street Food Pizza Pizza Fritte Pizza Fritte Napoli Pizza Napoli Restaurant Naples Italy Restaurant Napoli Street Food. But I think [pizza fritta] was built on [cooking] traditions that were already there.". It continues to be successful thanks to the high quality of its pizzas, including the fried version. The owner of Focella, Giulio Adriani is a famous Italian pizza maker. +39 081 281057 - 081 267919, Hours: Mon.-Fri. 7am-4pm; Sat. Starita - One of the oldest pizzerias in Naples, Starita has been owned and operated by the same family for 110 years and four generations. Choose between making a pizza margherita, marinara or a fried pizza and for 2 hours you will be a professional pizza maker. I noticed that this happened very frequently. But not everyone is convinced that pizza fritta’s origins are as straightforward as portrayed in popular culture. Arret’ ‘e case nove is an area called “behind the new houses.” It’s not easy to find Masardona’s pizzeria in that maze of narrow streets between Via Amerigo Vespucci (Via Marina) and Corso Arnaldo Lucci. Naples-born Gino Sorbillo, Italy’s famed pizzaiuolo, made one for me recently explaining, “Pizza fritta comes in different shapes. She watched as I bit into it and she asked, “Buono?” (“Good?”). A Naples Pizza Guide: Where to find the best pizza in Naples Italy, the history of pizza, & tips to make the most of your pizza experience. There’s not much in the way of seating at the pizzeria, just a few stools inside and a couple of tables on the small sidewalk outside. Indeed, they represent a tasty reinterpretation of the traditional pizza. One of the highlights of the menu is the so-called "Horn of Maradona", A fried pizza in the shape of u stuffed with ricotta and cicioli. She moved quickly, using her fingers to knead dough that was made of Tipo 00 extra-fine flour, yeast, water and a pinch of salt. It is famous all over the world, but only here is the real one! He also cites pizza fritta’s affiliation with the lower classes as a reason for it losing its allure during this time period. Pizza fritta translates directly to “fried pizza,” so its popularity isn’t hard to understand. ️. And for those of you who love crust, you're in luck. Of course there are many other toppings you can order, but these are the two most traditional. “Pizza fritta”, the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza, emerged as a result of poverty amid World War Two and was known as “the pizza of the people”. Enzo runs a very efficient business. See more of Take a Trip to Southern Italy on Facebook If you aren’t tired of eating fried food, a stop that’s less historic but certainly satisfying – a step away from Piazza Plebiscito – is the fried pizza of Zia Esterina (also by Sorbillo), the fried food establishment that the pizza maker has dedicated to his beloved aunt, who ran the “Quattro tavoli” pizzeria. There’s a saying here, voce e’ popolo, voce e’ dio (the Neapolitan version of vox populi vox dei), which means that something is certain – there’s no doubt. Deep-fried pizza – just like they make it in Naples The traditional Neapolitan way to make pizza was to fry it, says Bob Granleese. Use … A few skillful, fast movements – part of the family legacy – and the pizza is immersed in hot oil for what seem like only a few seconds. After a few deft spins by the wife at the fryer, the pizza is ready, scorchingly hot, delicious. “I’m very busy and can only talk to you when I’m working,” she said. The phenomenon even made its way into Vittorio de Sica’s 1954 film L'Oro di Napoli (The Gold of Naples), which contains six chapters set in the city. Pizzeria De Figliole. He benefits from the fact that fried pizza lends itself to home delivery. Unable to access – let alone afford – traditional pizza, locals began deep-frying dough and using lower-quality ingredients – such as anchovies and broccoli – purchased spoiled or out of season to make what became known as pizza fritta. 1947 pizza fritta, Naples: See 932 unbiased reviews of 1947 pizza fritta, rated 4.5 of 5 on Tripadvisor and ranked #49 of 3,337 restaurants in Naples. Everyone here knows Masardona, the fry house that seems to be the one immortalized by Vittorio De Sica in the movie “The Gold of Naples,” starring Giacomo Furia and Sophia Loren. And that applies to Masardona’s pizza being one of the best in the city. Stanziola, in fact, was the one who suggested I visit Miano’s no-frills stall during my stay in Naples. It emerged as a result of poverty during World War Two, when Naples suffered roughly 200 air raids by the Allies, according to Simone Cinotto, associate professor of modern history at the Università di Scienze Gastronomiche in Pollenzo, Italy, and author of The Italian American Table: Food, Family, and Community in New York City. Fried food = delicious. Fried pizza is mature and can handle the journey! Fried pizza? Cinotto notes that people in Italy started to become more health-conscious in the 1980s and ‘90s. The less desirable parts of vegetables, like artichoke stems, were also used. It’s located behind the Loreto Mare Hospital; once you’ve made it near the hospital, the best way to find it quickly is to just ask someone, “Where is pizzeria Masardona?”. She beamed whenever a neighbour stopped to chat or someone waved from a motorbike as they whizzed by. Post navigation. “If you visit Naples and want to understand and appreciate its history, you have to try pizza fritta like hers.”, Pizza fritta really looks like a wartime food. She was sitting in a plastic chair and smoking a cigarette in an alleyway outside a basso (street-level home) that she operates as a humble food stall in the historic Naples neighbourhood of Quartieri Spagnoli. When I returned a few weeks later to see Miano again, she was sitting again in the plastic chair outside her store, this time sans cigarette. During the 1990’s when Bill Clinton, former President of the United States once visited Naples, he enjoyed pizza fritta at a pizzeria located in the heart of the city called La Figlia del Presidente . Taste some of the best pizza in Naples on our walk! Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram. Via Giulio Cesare Capaccio 27, Tel. View image of Nonna Fernanda is considered one of Naples' best pizza fritta makers (Credit: Credit: Erika Hobart), How to make pizza like a Neapolitan master, The Italian American Table: Food, Family, and Community in New York City, View image of Although Neapolitan pizza is most often associated with Naples, fried pizza is the city’s beloved street food (Credit: Credit: Marialba.italia/Getty Images), View image of Sorbillo Esterina in the historical centre of Naples is famous for its takeaway fried pizza (Credit: Credit: Stuart Black/Alamy), View image of Modern chefs like Isabella de Cham are elevating pizza fritta from its rustic roots by using ingredients like octopus (Credit: Credit: Erika Hobart), View image of Pizza fritta originated during World War Two when locals could neither access nor afford traditional pizza (Credit: Credit: Kontrolab/Getty Images), sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter. Round, called ‘montanare’ or half moon ‘calzone.” For the dough, which is the same as for classic oven pizza, Gino uses only a miniscule pinch of leavening to create chewy, never spongy, dough. The Starita a Materdei pizzeria is one of the cornerstones of the pizza tradition in Naples. De Figliole is a bit of a stand-out restaurant on our list as it exclusively sells … +39 081 281057 - 081 267919, Hours: Mon.-Fri. 7am-4pm; Sat. NAPLES. Types of Pizza in Naples The two most famous kinds of Pizza in Naples are Margherita (Mozzarella, tomato sauce, and basil) and Marinara (tomato sauce, garlic, oregano, olive oil). “Fernanda is a true Neapolitan woman. A Naples Pizza Guide: Where to find the best pizza in Naples Italy, the history of pizza, & tips to make the most of your pizza experience. “There were no ingredients for making pizza and many of the ovens were actually destroyed by the bombings… People had to get creative and ingenious to find replacements for missing ingredients.”. Neapolitan pizza is also the inspiration behind New York-style pizza, which Italian immigrants introduced to the United States in the early 20th Century. Miano was not surprised that I was curious about her. He has a … Fried pizza is an ideal way to combine two Naples specialties, pizza and fried snacks, in one fell swoop. Italy's Beloved 'Fried Pizza' BBC ^ | Erik Hobert Posted on 12/13/2020 9:47:37 PM PST by nickcarraway “Pizza fritta”, the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza, emerged as a result of poverty amid World War Two and was known as “the pizza of the people”. She says it’s especially important because her generation could be the last to experience the people and businesses that survived World War Two. https://yourguardianchef.com/neapolitan-fried-dough-pizza-recipe She then added scoops of crushed tomatoes, pork scratchings, mozzarella and ricotta. It’s called Pizza Fritta da Fernanda and the menu consists of just pizza fritta (fried pizza) in two sizes: grande (large) for €3 and piccola (small) for €2. A real highlight of my visit to Naples the home of pizza. The dish is so highly regarded that Unesco granted it World Heritage status in 2017. A bit of pepper is added, and then Enzo punches all around the sides of the pizza to ensure that the filling won’t leak. 7am-4pm and 7pm-midnigh (Directions), The New Life of Pie: Firing Up Naples’ Pizza Ovens, Pizzeria ‘Ntretella: New Pies on the Block. They produce just one thing: fried pizza, made of a light dough enclosing a mixture of ricotta, cicoli (fatty pork), provola cheese and tomato. Do not miss the opportunity to learn how to make a real Neapolitan pizza in the "pizza workshops" of Naples, the city where the most famous dish in the world was created! Sign up for our weekly newsletter for exclusive stories, promotions and activities. 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